Light Modifiers - How and Why We Use Them
Softboxes, reflector dishes, umbrellas and beauty dishes are just some of the modifiers that we have available to us as photographers to attach to our lighting to change the way it works for us. In this article I will go through the basics of modifiers and the how and why they are used. Before we talk about actual modifiers, we perhaps need to check that we totally understand how light is affected by simple rules when it comes to the quality of the light. Now, the word quality is an interesting one. What we mean by quality and the quality of light needed for one situation may be different to another situation. When I discuss quality of light to my mentoring students, I usually split it into two main characteristics with another secondary one as well. The first thing I talk about is hardness of the light. This relates to the edge of the shadow and how that presents itself. If the light source is small relative to the subject, then the edge of the shadow will be a more solid line, and clearly defined so we call that light “hard”. If the shadow is diffuse at its edge due to the light source being large compared to the subject then the light is usually referred to as “soft”. Obviously there are different levels of hardness, all dependant upon the light size to the subject. The next characteristic I talk about is contrast, which relates to the difference in stops between the highlight side and the shadow side in a portrait. The bigger the difference, the more contrast there is. Now people often call the combination of contrast and hardness as harsh light but contrast is often influenced by light position and closeness to subject and a little by the modifier. You can have soft light that is both contrasty or not and hard light that is also contrasty or not, all depends on positions and the modifier. The third characteristic that modifiers affect is the specularity or shininess of the highlights. In simple terms the lining of the modifier if silver will give off shinier highlights than if it is matt white. What modifiers should you use?
Bare Flash
The design of most studio lights is to use a round flash tube to throw the light as evenly as possible in all directions in front of the head. This is great as it helps get it more evenly spread but a nightmare to control as it does indeed go everywhere.So, bare bulb has the odd use but generally not what we use as portrait photographers
Reflector Dishes
Next up is reflector dishes. These go from tiny to fair sized. From little five inch spill kills to 18 inch maxi reflectors. They are usually silver on the inside and fit direct to the head with no diffuser, their job is to control the spill of light and funnel it all straight forward. They are very efficient and give great output to the light but unless the largest ones they are small sources and produce very hard light when used in portraiture, Great for putting spots on backgrounds but I would rarely use for normal portraits unless recreating the hard lightlooks of Hollywood in the 30’s and 40’s or punchy fashion images with models. Reflector dishes are great for maximising the power of the light if used with low powered lights.
A beauty dish is a modification of the reflector dish, comes in various sizes and with a central deflector which prevents the flash coming straight out, it hits the deflector then bounces back into the dish to then come forward again. The point of this is to reduce the hot spot in the middle. Used a lot in fashion and beauty photography, they can provide beautiful semi hard light with crisp edges to it. They work well with good make up and clear skin but can show up blemishes and skin defects a lot. For general portraiture I find personally I use mine very little though I know others that do. I prefer, using my Elinchrom system to use a 70cm deep octobox with deflector disc and single layer of diffusion to give a similar but more gentle effect. In short, reflector dishes can be useful but they are hard light unless used really really close with the larger ones.
Softboxes
Softboxes are what most people think of when they thing of modifiers. They come in all shapes and sizes from small to huge, and their purpose is to increase the size of the light source to soften and spread it. The shape affects the spread and the size affects the softness ( though you can make them softer or harder by moving closer or further away). The ones I use the most are large octoboxes and strip boxes. As you can guess, octoboxes are octagonal in shape and strips are long and narrow. The strips allow me to precisely control the spread of the light and prevent spill. The big octobox or similar is a really versatile source. It can be pulled back a little to light a family or big group or brought in really close to get super soft light, bringing it in close makes it bigger relative to the subject and bigger is softer when close.
Umbrellas
Umbrellas come in many sorts, sizes and finishes. They can be “shoot through” where the fabric is diffuse and the flash is fired directly though the umbrella towards the subject and the umbrella acts as a diffuser. The other type is indirect where the flash fires into the umbrella and bounces off the inside before coming back out. They can be white or silver or even gold to give different effects to the light. The silver or gold will give a punchier more specular light. The white inside of a bounced umbrella can be a really useful modifier as it is easy to transport, put up and position. Some come with an outer diffuser which adds another layer of softness due to diffusing the light some more. I use these a lot – in particular the Elinchrom deep white 125cm and outer diffuser. It’s easy to get a beautiful quality of light from it in close to the subject. The only downside to umbrellas at times is they are not as easy to control as a softbox and have more spill. Once mastered they are a great modifier.
How to light this portrait - The Dancer
How to Light Dance Photography - how to pose and light this image
The aim of this portrait was some simple dance shots to show off the new backdrops down at Click Props. This is the awesome Silver tones, I actually designed this one. i’ve added in a vinyl floor just to give it a floor.
Katie is a modern dancer, and this is a guide on how to light dance photography. Katie is used to the stage but unfortunately she doesn’t have any work at the moment. However she is also a great model and has been fabulous on our content days at the Click studios in Watford,
How did I create this?
It’s actually much more simple than you would think. I used a 150cm octobox boomed overhead slightly camera right and feathered across onto Katie. I also added a strip box accent light camera right behind in a usual feather position to separate the back leg.
Lots of timing to get the jump mid air, I think these two took jumps took 6 frames altogether. Fast flash freezes the movement even at 1/125th. F8, Iso 100.
The triptych was a different way of presenting a series of shot.
You can find more lighting diagrams elsewhere in my blog.
Review of Photography Mentoring
I choose 1-2-1 photography mentoring with Gary Hill so that I could take advantage of all his time, knowledge and experience. Having followed Gary for a few years, I loved his style of light; how each individual picture captures features of the subject making his work extremely noticeable. I chose Gary because I wanted to push myself and tweak bad habits I have as a photographer. I wanted to learn more about different sources of light and how it can change a whole image using different lighting techniques. Having joined The Guild of Photographers I wanted to push myself to awards higher than the bronze awards I was already receiving. I knew Gary was the mentor to do this.
I had photography mentoring with Gary... this is my honest review.
We covered lots
I spoke with Gary leading up to my 1-2-1 about the areas I wanted to cover; gels, posing, how to shoot on a white backdrop, headshots with the triflection, full length shots using natural light, one source or light then introducing a second light to change the image completely.
The day was jam packed of tricks, helpful tips and lots of fun and laughter. Gary arranged two models who were very relaxed. There was no pressure to understand quickly, if you didn’t get it Gary would explained it until you did.
I learned so much
The lightbulb moment for me is my confidence this is the issue with me, Gary taught me simple methods on how to spend more time capturing and trying out new things and getting it right in camera then spending very little time to edit. He built my confidence then and now, Gary’s after care is great he never stops pushing or helping you grow.
The workshop has helped build my confidence and style as a photographer I’ve gone on since to win high bronzes and a silver award with the guild.
I’ll book again!
Having completed this 1-2-1 with Gary it won’t stop me from doing so again, there’s so much to learn and grasp with photography. I loved watching him work the camera and the lights. Overall I had a wonderful experience and hope to return again this year!
When I return again I would love to cover more with family posing
The overall experience is just what I wanted to get out if it. Gary is a fantastic mentor.
Lindsay Betts Photography
Why I Shoot Timeless Portraits
A portrait for me, has to have something more than just be a representation of the person you are photographing. It has to have connection and a feeling. When I was learning my craft, I studied so many images and I was always drawn to classical posing, simple styling and good lighting. I teach different genres of photography, but timeless studio portraits is by far my most popular course. If you’d like to find out more, you can take a look at the training page of my website, or get in touch to discuss it with me.Why I Shoot Timeless Portraits
When I look back at my portraits over the years, there is a theme of timeless and traditional running through most of the. Over time, I found my own style developing along those lines and I wondered why.
I originally loved shooting fashion images, images that were current and some would say trendy. But as I developed and evolved, I found that both myself and the people I photograph appreciated the fact that I had developed a timeless style.
How and Why I Shoot Timeless
To achieve timeless portraiture, I try and avoid my subjects wearing overly fashionable items, opting for classic clothes and accessories that won’t date instead. The reason for this is that a portrait that is going to be displayed on a family’s wall is a big investment. Not only the cost of the product but also, the time and effort into getting the sitting booked, the planning of the clothing and turning up for the actual session. Add in the cost of a wall art portrait and it’s a commitment. So for me, I want them to have photographs from their photoshoot that are not really going to date.
Photographs that will stand the test of time and be there when that child is no longer living at home. If they never ring their parents while at university, but the parents walk down the stairs and see that wall art in the hallway. It reminds them of the time when they were together, adding to the positive experience of the photoshoot. That way, the investment becomes much longer lasting, and the value or it immeasurable. That to me is why I love the timeless portrait.
To learn in person about timeless portraits and family photography, check out my upcoming workshop.
10 Things Your New Photography Studio Needs
Every photography studio is different, some are very clinical, others quirky and some are so homely. How you set yours up depends on how you shoot and who your client is – but there are certain things that I would recommend you have in one. One piece of advice I always give is “buy cheap, buy twice” – if you scrimp in the early days, you’ll end up regretting it and having to replace things. Spend time researching what is the best for your new photography studio, and your kit will last for years.What you need in your photography studio
1. A comfy sitting space for clients
Whether you are having a chat with clients when they arrive in your photography studio, changing set ups or want a space for parents to sit while you are photographing their children, a comfy seating area is so important. Something that is easy to clean when you get children with messy fingers are in the studio is what I would recommend. A small sofa or a couple of chairs is ideal and if you shoot some boudoir, a sofa bed like a click clack style is handy as it can be multi purposed.
2. A drinks station!
A kettle in your photography studio for those of us that like a warm drink (white coffee for me, please!) and always a few bottles of water for you and the clients. A coffee machine is a nice bonus, but I prefer a cafetiere as it takes up less room. De-caff options and fruit teas are very popular, especially if you shoot maternity.
3. Parking or access nearby to parking
Almost all clients unless you are based in a city centre will be travelling by car so somewhere secure and close that they can park is pretty essential. It’s a good idea to provide directions with parking info to your clients ahead of their portrait session – they are more likely to arrive on time that way!
4. Samples of your work
So, so important. Clients buy what they see, so if you want them to buy wall art or albums, make sure you have samples on your wall. BIG as you can get away with is what I would say and only items you want to sell and that compliment your work.
5. Sockets!
No matter how many you have you will need more and always have a couple of extension leads. You need to move your lights around to suit what you are shooting so make it easy for yourself and have places you can plug in.
6. Storage
It doesn’t matter whether you think you won’t use many props in your photography studio, you will accumulate lots of items and they need to go somewhere – not on the floor! Things always look better when they can be put away, so get as much storage as you can fit in without encroaching on your shooting area.
7. Stools and crates or other posing aids
These can transform your images in particular if you shoot groups or families. Find something you like and try and get different sizes, so you have one for every eventuality. My Blessence Props Crates are my most used items after backdrops.
8. Lights and modifiers
Even if you only shoot with one light, get a spare and at least one big modifier and if possible a strip box too. With those two and two lights, you can do so much. Backdrops that suit your style, if you don’t like it, don’t have it. Items like a TriFlection from Click Props are great additions to a studio light set up.
9. Viewing area
Use of a large screen TV or a projector to show the clients their images is a fantastic addition, and a laptop or computer that can link to Youtube or iPlayer can keep young children occupied if you need to work with the adults.
10. Facilities
At some point, someone is going to need the toilet and it is ideal if it’s in the same area so you can keep the flow of the shoot going as well as possible if a toilet trip is needed, a private changing area as well or a suitable screening off portion makes clients feel very comfortable whilst changing. A baby changing mat is a useful addition if you have babies and families visit you, wipes and nappies can be useful to have to hand, too.
Why Choose 1:1 Photography Mentoring
I have been training photographers and offering 1:1 photography mentoring for many years – both professionals and beginners. I am passionate about raising the quality of portrait photography for everyone. If you’re looking for photography mentoring, you’ll find an array of different options available – online workshops, in person small group photography workshops, larger group workshops and 1:1 mentoring. Hopefully I can help you to choose what’s right for you. There is some information here, and on the training page of my website, but do get in touch with me if you’d like to discuss it in person.Why Choose 1:1 Mentoring to improve your Photography
1. Bespoke to you.
Whether you are a complete beginner or a seasoned veteran photographer, you are never finished learning. A 1:1 photography mentoring session with me can be completely bespoke to your needs, what you want to work on and how you learn. Whether you are looking for a day learning about fine art photography, or a half-day in the studio and a half-day editing, or even ongoing support with regular training throughout the year, we can design your photography mentoring to be all about you.
2. In your own space, or in mine
I travel all over the UK and throughout the world to deliver photography training. Coming to you means that you can learn the very best ways to use your props, posing aids, lights and studio space. I can even help you to decide what you may need to buy to add to your studio collection if you want.
If you don’t have a suitable studio then you can come to use mine and I will train you using the very best Elinchrom lighting and modifiers from The Flash Centre, and a fantastic selection of backdrops from Click Backdrops. You can use this knowledge whether you are mobile or use another space to work from.
3. Find or develop your own style
In a workshop, a group of people will inevitably lead to more generic training, whereas a 1:1 means we can concentrate on your own style of photography. Whether you prefer light and airy, vintage, fine art or high key, we can spend a day working carefully on your style of photography.
4. Concentrate on one genre
If there’s something in particular you want to excel in, in a 1:1 mentoring session we can concentrate on the genre you want to specialise in. If you’d like training in boudoir posing and lighting, we can concentrate on that, or if you’d like to work with younger children, then that’s OK too. You’re in charge of your training and I’ll help you with whatever you would like me to!
5. Some things are just better 1:1!
When we are working together for 1:1 photography mentoring, there are some things that we can do better than in a workshop! For example, I can demonstrate a skill, then watch as you try yourself, and make tiny adjustments to show you exactly how to get it right. We can sit together at an editing screen and I can show you the small edits that will make a huge difference to your image. It’s all about you – and how I can best help you to become a better photographer.
Why Choose a Photography Workshop
I have been training professional photographers for many years – I am really enthusiastic about raising the quality of portrait photography for everyone. When you are looking to book photography training – whether it’s your first or you’re a seasoned trainee – you’ll find an array of different options available – online workshops, in person small group photography workshops, larger group workshops and 1:1 mentoring. Hopefully I can help you to choose what’s right for you. There is some information here, and on the training page of my website, but do get in touch with me if you’d like to discuss it in person.Why Choose a Photography Workshop Over 1:1 Mentoring
1. A photography workshop is affordable.
In a group photography workshop, the cost is lower as it is shared amongst the participants. It’s a great option if you are a beginner looking to learn lighting basics, studio lighting or posing. If you’ve been a photographer for a while and you are looking to improve a specific skill, such as portrait posing, working with a certain age group such as children’s photography or if you want to specialise in a gentle such as learning fine art photography.
Usually, you can book a photography training workshop with a deposit, and the balance to pay at a later date, usually a few weeks before the workshop date.
2. Meet other photographers at a similar stage to you for peer support and friendship
A photography workshop is a fantastic way to make friends! You’ll meet a small group of like-minded people, with a passion for photography who want to learn more! If you are at a studio photography workshop, you will take it in turns to be hands-on and to try out your new skills.
Many of my workshops lead to long-term friendships, and often groups will book to return for a workshop on another aspect of photography with the same group of people! It’s a great way to develop a support group group and to make new friends!
3. Others will ask questions that you hadn’t thought of yet!
In a photography workshop group, you will have photographers with different backgrounds and different skill-sets coming together. There may be questions that you haven’t thought of yet that others will ask, and you can share your experience with each other, as well as learning loads from the workshop.
4. You can arrange to practice with other people after the workshop is over.
You will learn so much in my workshop. Not just how to light and pose, but why what I’m teaching you works well. Understanding the reasons behind good posing and correct posing makes it easier for you to reproduce it again yourself later.
Being in a group workshop means that you can arrange to meet up with others to help each other practice! Two heads are better than one, and you’ll all excel at different things, so comparing notes and practising together is a great way to consolidate your knowledge.
5. If you’re uncertain of speaking out there’s safety in numbers!!
Some people can find a 1:1 session intimidating. I’m really not scary, and will always take any training at your pace, but if you are particularly shy then you may find a little more anonymity in a group photography workshop rather than with 1:1 mentoring.
In a group workshop, you can be as quiet as you would like, or speak up as much as you are comfortable with. You will ultimately learn more if you join in, but you can choose whatever you are happiest with.
